Saturday, September 29, 2007

Descalzas Reales


Descalzas Reales

History

El Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, literally the Monastery of Barefoot Royals, resides in the former palace of Carlos I and Isabel of Portugal. Their daughter, Joan of Spain, founded this convent of Franciscan nuns in 1557. Throughout the remainder of the 16th century and into the 17th century, the convent attracted young noblewomen that were either disappointed by love or looking for love in Christ. Each woman brought with her a dowry. The riches quickly piled up, and the convent became one of the richest convents in all of Europe. Tomás Luis de Victoria, Spain's finest Renaissance composer, worked at the convent from 1587 to the end of his life in 1611.

The demographics of the convent slowly changed over time, and by the 20th century, all of the sisters were in poverty. The convent maintained the riches of its past, but it was forbidden to auction any of the items off or spend any of the money it received from the dowries. The state intervened when it saw that the sisters were literally starving, and the pope granted a special dispensation to open the convent as a museum.

Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (died 1989) is buried in the Chapel of Saint John the Baptist next to his elder son Francisco (died 1984). Alfonso's younger brother Gonzalo (died 2000) is buried in the Chapel of Saint Sebastian.

Today: Museum

Today the Monastery invites visitors into the once secret halls of Madrid's arguably most mysterious building. The noblewomen's dowries lie in the Reliquary. One is said to contain pieces from Christ's cross; another is said to carry the bones of Saint Sebastian. Among the priceless art masterpieces are Titian's Caesar's Money and works by Hans de Beken and Brueghel the Elder.

Tours are given daily and almost exclusively in Spanish.

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